Nesting Materials

During my first few weeks taking care of breeders, I give them stripped (about 1 inch) bamboos. I just break it using a hammer for them to easily get nesting materials. Although they seem happy and a bit quiet because of being busy getting nesting materials, I realized later that it’s not a good nesting material. What they are getting is hard, sharp and pointed which is harmful for them, most especially to their young.

As much as I wanted to remove their nests, I couldn’t do so coz they might feel disappointed. I just stopped supplying bamboo strips and shifted to softer nesting materials like shredded white papers or shredded, unscented, plain white paper towels.

After their first successful breeding, where their chicks are independent already, I took the nesting box and removed everything inside. I returned it with new soft wooden shavings but without the nest.

Thorough research and consultation from expert breeders, I learned that one of the major factors in successful hatching of eggs is humidity. In the Philippines, this is so high especially during the months of March to May and just a bit lower for the rest of the year. Other suggested supplying them any dried grasses, some suggested buying nesting materials from pet shops (do we really have to do this?), others suggested to supplying “dayami” or haystack, but what attracted me most is to supplying Malunggay leaves.

Malunggay Leaves



Lovebirds adore fresh Malunggay (Moringa Oleifera or Ben Oil Tree) leaves and its stalk is a very good nesting material. I provide them around 8 inches long stalks of Malunggay with leaves. They will eat the leaves, shred the stalks, take them to their nest box and proceed to building their nest. I continue to supply Malunggay leaves even the eggs are laid. I am assuming that by doing this, it keeps the nest fresher keeping up the appropriate humidity level.

Malunggay is Miracle Vegetable

By Dr. Lydia M. Marero
Food and Nutrition Research Institute

Malunggay, known scientifically as Moringa oleifera Lamk, is one of the world's most useful plants. It is used as food, effective flocculant or water treatment, antibiotic, source of oil, and coagulant for turbid waters.
It is also called mother's best friend, and miracle vegetable by many who know malunggay's beneficial uses. It is cultivated in all countries of the tropics. It is easy to plant and is available year-round.

Malunggay's image was even used as the official logo of the Food and Nutrition Research Institute, an agency of the Department of Science and Technology.
One hundred grams or 1 cup of cooked malunggay leaves contain 3.1 g. protein, 0.6 g. fiber, 96 mg calcium, 29 mg phosphorus, 1.7 mg iron, 2,820 mg ß-carotene, 0.07 mg thiamin, 0.14 mg riboflavin, 1.1 mg niacin, and 53 mg ascorbic acid or vitamin C. The antioxidant activity of malunggay is about 71%, with µ-tocopherol (vitamin E) equivalent of 45.

Malunggay leaves are an excellent source of vitamin A and B, and minerals such as calcium and iron. It is even an excellent source of protein, being higher than the amino acid pattern of Food and Agriculture Organization-reference protein, yet contains very low fat and carbohydrates. The leaves are incomparable as a source of the sulfur-containing amino acids methionine and cystine, often the natural minerals humans’ lack.

Due to its high vitamins A, C, and E, which are very potent antioxidants, malunggay is a very good quencher of unstable free radicals that can react with and damage molecules that cause aging. Antioxidants reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. They also prevent the onset of various chronic diseases like arthritis, cancer, and heart and kidney diseases.

Malunggay contains the phytochemical niaziminin, which is found to have molecular components that can prevent the development of cancer cells (Faizi et al., 1992) and correlated with inhibitory ability against superoxide generation. The first naturally-occuring thiocarbamates, novel hypotensive agents niazinin A, niazinin B, niazimicin and niaziminin A and B were isolated from malunggay.

Malunggay is called miracle vegetable because it is not just a food, it is also a medicine. It may therefore be a functional food. Malunggay promotes good eyesight, digestion, facilitates bowel movement, and is a cure for stomach ache.

It is also used to cleanse wounds and ulcers. It helps alleviate scurvy, asthma, earache, and headaches. For its high calcium content, lactating mothers are advised to eat malunggay leaves to produce more milk.

Malunggay is usually cooked with chicken as tinola, or with fish and other vegetables, mongo soup dishes, and blanched as salads.

[For more information on food and nutrition, you may write or call The Director, Food and Nutrition Research Institute-Department of Science and Technology, Gen. Santos Avenue, Bicutan, Taguig, Metro Manila, Tel/Fax: 8372934, 8373164; E-mail: cvcb@fnri.dost.gov.ph; FNRI-DOST website: http//www.fnri@dost.gov.ph]

My Nesting Box

The nesting box that I created is a complete replica of what is commercially available. The only difference is that I painted them with water based paints, but only on the outside. Picture above shows the sketch of the nesting box that I created using google sketch. The size is 8 inches (deep) x 8 inches (tall) and 12 inches wide. As suggested by many, the bigger the nest box, the better. Just like the breeding cages. But if you want to maximize your breeding aviary, then using the minimum size should be fine, but never go lower than that.

Initial preparation

Before I put my new breeders inside their new breeding cages, I see to it that their nest box is initially prepared. Inside the nesting box is around 2 inches thick of wood shavings. I cut them into small pieces like ½ to ¾ of an inch. I carefully select every wood shaving that I put in; making sure that only soft materials are included.

Normally, nesting box is placed outside the breeding cage so that there is enough space for the birds to beat their wings without hitting anything or they should be able to climb and play as a form of an exercise. But then again, since I do not have the luxury of doing this because of limited space, I placed the nest box inside the breeding cage. Fortunately, my birds seem happy and breeding well.

I also make sure that I can easily open the door of the nesting box every time I want to peek in. If the door seems tight, I sand them down to smooth the edges. In this manner, I avoided wiggling the nest box, which might be irritating to the hen, eggs or chicks.


Cleaning

Though my nesting box is placed inside the breeding cage, I see to it that I can remove the nesting box every time I need to clean it. Nesting box is hanged inside using only brass hooks (without any sharp edges), but making sure that it is in steady position and not wiggling.