Perches for my Lovebirds

Noticed that I used Perches instead of just a Perch? That is because, perches is where lovebirds stay most of the time.

Lovebirds love to play inside their cage. They will climb, fly, bite anything, and flying from one perch to another is good form of an exercise for them.

Perches in my breeding cages



I see to it that there are at least two (2) perches in all of my breeding cages and both should be stable and not wiggling. The perch is one of the most important elements that you put inside the breeding cage, because this is where they usually mate. If this is wiggling, obviously they may not be able to mate perfectly, causing infertility to their eggs.

And since breeding cage’s size is limited, I could not afford to put two horizontal perches. What I did is one horizontal perch, positioned at around 8 inches from the floor and one flat perch, which is positioned paralleled to the hole of their nesting box.

The flat perch is 7 inches long and 6 inches wide, giving them more space so that their tails won’t always touch the cage’s wall. I’m a bit hesitant using this kind of perch at first as I really do not know what could be the effect. This is experimental and turned out OK as that they use this most of the time whenever they would like to take some nap outside their nesting box.

The horizontal perch is where they usually mate. Maybe because it puts them into a steadier position because they can clamp their feet to it.

Perches in my flight cage

I also put two (2) perches for my flight cage, but this time both are horizontal and at least one of them is swinging. Lovebirds adore swinging perches, as if they are landing on a real small branch of a tree causing it to swing.

I see to it that one is positioned at around 15 inches from the bottom and the other one is around 40 inches from the bottom of the cage. The lower perch is positioned a bit on the front side of the cage and the perch at the top is positioned a bit at the back of the cage. This is to ensure that lovebirds sitting at the lower perch do not have droppings landing on them.

Sexing Lovebirds

As I have mentioned in my previous post, you cannot determine whether the lovebird is a male or a female by just looking at it. And the surest way to know the lovebirds’ real gender is only through DNA or you may bring your lovebird to a Veterinarian and ask her to check if your lovebird is a male or a female. The veterinarian will basically put the bird into sleep; create a small incision in its left side. If it’s a female then its ovary should be visible.

According to many and with my own personal observation too, we may also determine the sex of a lovebird by observing the following, but remember that these are not absolutes:
- The female will sit on a perch with her legs spread further apart than the male (hard to tell)
- Nest building activity is stronger in the female (most likely)
- Females tend to be bigger in build than the male (not so conclusive)
- Males feed the female (most likely)
- Males sit outside the nesting box during the day while the female stays inside, most especially when eggs are laid. (most likely)
- Females are mostly dominant and very aggressive in protecting their territory (not so conclusive)
- You may also touch (gently) the bird’s pelvic bone. Open pelvic bone is for female and close pelvic one is for male. (most likely)

Knowing the real gender of your lovebirds may be hard, but with constant observation, especially when your breeders have laid their eggs already, you can easily determine who the male is and the female.

With young birds (at least 4 months old), or even matured lovebirds, start by touching gently its pelvic bone. Use your first finger and gently touch the base of the tail. You should feel 2 bones and if the bones are spaced apart so that your finger can go between the bones then there’s a big chance that it’s a female. But if you can feel both bones very close together then there’s a big chance that it is a male. Once you’ve done this, observe, observe and observe its character.

Hope this could help.

Pairing my Lovebirds

Pairing lovebirds is the hardest yet the most exciting part. One main reason is that lovebirds are not sexually dimorphic. Meaning you cannot determine if a lovebird is a male or a female just by looking at it. According to experts, the only way to determine the real gender of a lovebird is through DNA testing. Through what?! I did not even bother checking whether this could be done in the Philippines. And even if it is, I’m sure it’s expensive.

The easiest and surest way

The easiest way is to buy proven pair lovebirds from breeders. When we say “proven”, this pair had successfully raised their own chicks already. This is what I did initially, after making 10 breeding cages. I bought seven (7) proven eye ring pairs while the remaining three I used for my initial three proven non eye ring African lovebirds.

Obviously, I never had a problem in terms of pairing correctly because of this. But there are disadvantages, too like:
• Proven pairs are quite expensive
• They need several months, sometimes year before they could breed again when transferred to a new place or to a new breeding cage. They first need to adopt their new environment, to the style of their new handler, etc…
• You’re not exactly sure of its real condition or history. In the first place, a businessman won’t sell a good breeder, right?

Natural pairing

Natural pairing is when you put all your birds in one big cage, allowing them to select partners on their own. In my opinion, this is a good way to produce good breeders because of the certainty that your breeders like each very much.

Naturally paired lovebirds are very noticeable. They are always together and staying away from the rests of the birds inside the big cage. My suggestion is that when you see them naturally pairing, and are matured enough to become breeders, then you isolate them to their own breeding cage.

This type of procedure is being suggested if you want to produce lovebirds in quantity rather than in quality. In quality in terms of producing the right mutation that you want. It’s like you are pairing this color (of cock) to this color (of hen) to produce this color (of chicks), and that is called mutation.


My pairing box is made of wood that I put inside the big cage. Notice that this is divided and naturally pairing lovebirds tends to be together inside one of the boxes most of the time.

I got deceived by natural pairing one time

Though natural pairing seems to be a good idea of producing breeders, still this is not a 100% guarantee that they are really male and female.

It happened to me one time, after 1 or 2 months of transferring them to a breeding cage they started laying eggs but were never successful hatching it. This normally happens to young breeders (less than 10 months) and if it is their first clutch.

I just waited for the next mating season. After around 2 months they started laying eggs again. When I saw their first 2 eggs in their nesting box, I just let them do their thing and did not bother checking its status again because I don’t want them to feel disturbed.

It was only after 21 days, when I started checking on the eggs’ status. Unfortunately, 28 days had passed already, after seeing the first 2 eggs, and still not even a single egg is hatched. I gave them another 2 days, but still nothing. There must be something wrong.

I took their nesting box outside their breeding cage only to find out that there are a total of eleven (11) eggs! This isn’t normal, and the reason behind is that both of them are female and of course their eggs are naturally infertile.

This is one problem with natural pairing; lovebirds don’t always pair up with male and female, but sometimes pair up with same sex.

Bonded Pairing

Bonded pairing is used by expert breeders so that they can produce the type of mutation that they want. If you want to try this, you have to make sure that you are trying to pair a real male and a real female. Then observe. Make sure that they really like each other before they produce eggs otherwise expect a low percentage of fertile eggs.

How I Started Breeding Lovebirds?

My car mechanic called me up one day and asked me if I am willing to adopt his african lovebirds. Mixed emotions and for some reason I couldn't say no. He said he couldn't take care of them anymore plus he needed the space that is being occupied by the birds.

Tortured

After three (3) days, he brought the lovebirds to my house including the almost dilapidated breeding cages. We just hang the cages on one side of my driveway’s wall and put some black plastic material on top to at least protect them from rain and heavy sunlight.

Honestly, I was not so excited that time. In many occasion, I am irritated because they are too noisy the whole day. I didn't even bother changing their water on a daily basis. I put plenty of birdseed mix in every cage enough for their 3 or 4 days meal. To cut the long torturing story short, they are neglected as if they never exist.

Catching my attention

While I am getting ready for work one morning, I noticed that almost all of them are busy biting the sides of their nesting box as if they are trying to get something. Then one of the birds made a good strip (nesting box is made of plywood), stuffed it under its wing and climbed all the way through its nesting box. It is when I realized that they are building nests. That very incident made my feelings changed for them. I immediately looked for probable nesting materials and that is when I provided them bamboo strips (which I discussed wrong in my nesting materials topic).

From that point on, unknowingly, I am spending more and more time with them. I started researching from the internet how to take care of lovebirds correctly. I see to it that I clean their water and food containers on a daily basis. I don’t give them so much food anymore and started providing them nutritional supplements. I also learned to give them vegetable meals, etc… and hey, I’m not getting irritated with their noise anymore! It is as if, their non-stop chirping habits became music to my ears.

The excitement continues that even my wife developed the bad habit of frequently peeking into their nest boxes, counting the eggs, expecting to see some hatched eggs though we know that they are not yet due. It seems forever to hatch because of the excitement. Until one day, one very good day, we saw a chick. And then another on the third day, until another, until all of them successfully hatched 2 chicks each.

Continuously checking for the status of the chicks, I am so impressed that they are growing so fast. That prompted me to make a flight cage. After around 6 to 8 weeks the chicks showed some signs of independence, so I transferred them to the flight cage. That is when my daughter, Sachie, asked “Are we going to sell them?” and without hesitation I said “no”.

One of the breeders partner died


One night, I noticed that one of the birds is outside of its nesting box. It is a very unusual situation because they are usually inside their nesting box after around 6pm. I simply observed but later on decided to open the cage and check on the bird. To my surprise it didn’t move. So I took it and that is when I learned that it is so thin and looking very sick. I really don’t know what to do and I simply put it back to its breeding cage.

The next morning, I checked on the sick bird again. It is still on the same position where I put it. I didn’t bother getting it again because its partner is beside him. That is when I realized that the sick bird is the male one. Still don’t know what to do, helpless and just hoped that he will soon be okay.

After office, I dropped by to a pet shop planning to buy some meds. I asked the seller for recommendation and offered me antibiotics. Having heard of antibiotics made me hesitate and did not buy the medicine; I just planned to take the bird to a veterinarian instead. Unfortunately, when I reached home, the bird is already dead.

Everything really started when he died

Loosing a bird is sad, but seeing its partner alone in the cage is sadder.

I couldn’t stand seeing the hen alone in her breeding cage. I decided to transfer her to the flight cage together with the young birds so she wouldn’t feel alone. After several days, I could still feel her sadness as if she is feeling out of place together with the young birds.

I checked for breeders from the internet, and contacted the ones near in Pateros, where I live. Most of them are breeding Agapornis Fisheri or commonly called eye-ring lovebirds. Quite frustrated, an office mate gave me an advice to go to Cartimar, giving me assurance that it is the place where I could buy a partner for my non-eye ring lovebird.

But after several minutes, one of breeders whom I contacted thru text messaging sent me this exact message “Sir, will you be interested in buying my proven pair? Dark blue personata cock and pastel blue fischer hen. I will give it to you for 2.5k... it is just that my daughter is in the hospital.”

The very last sentence moved me, and I can still remember the feeling until now. The very first thing that comes into my mind is to help this guy. I don’t know this guy really, but I felt some sincerity and I felt his need to raise money. But I don’t have plans to invest to new birds, especially of different specie. I just needed a partner for my hen.

It took me several minutes before decided to reply. And so I did, “I’m not really looking for additional birds, just a partner for my peached face lutino. I want to help you but I couldn’t afford to buy a pair for 2.5k. Might as well offer me your available young eye-ring lovebirds equivalent to 2.5k”.

After a few minutes, he replied and gave me a list of mutations, which I couldn’t understand at that time; in short he is offering 5 young birds. Without hesitation I replied, “Ok, just give me your exact address and I will pick it up tomorrow morning, Saturday”. Hey, I don’t even have a cage to house these birds!

So the next day, I went to the address that he gave me and finally met him. His name is Carlo from Manggahan, Pasig. That is the first aviary I saw and I am so impressed. After “hi” and “hello’s” I asked for the condition of her sick daughter. He said she’s in the hospital for more than a week already because of some viral infection. While having a conversation about her sick daughter, he’s preparing a few Zesto carton boxes. I eventually learned that those boxes are meant to cage the birds for me to carry back home.

That is when I realized how ignorant I am in this hobby or business. But there I am ready to pick up 5 new young birds and of different specie from what I already have.

While catching the birds and putting the birds inside the juice box, Carlo won’t stop thanking me. He then learned that I am not really into birds and I am just looking for a partner for my hen. He is so thankful that he added 2 more young birds for free.

On my way back home, I saw a pet shop selling lovebirds. I stopped by and asked for a matured non-eye ring cock. Luckily, they have one. White Face, Turquoise, matured proven male only for 200 pesos. Funny isn’t it? I put him together with my lutino hen inside a breeding cage hoping they would like each other. After barely two months, I have two new beautiful white faces chicks.

Really, I’m not ready

This is really the funny part; I don’t have a cage to house the eye-rings which I bought from Carlo! I then decided to just put them on the small flight cage together with my young non-eye ring lovebirds.

Fortunately, I have plenty of used ply boards which came from the CEO of the company where I work. It came from a big-big cabinet, dismantled when she decided to transfer to a new house. She offered it to me for free, because she knows transforming second hand materials is one of my hobbies. And since it’s a Saturday, I then started to make my very first pairing cage. (You can see the picture of this in Pairing my Lovebirds topic).

And you know what? I never stopped making breeding cages until all of the second hand plyboards are consumed. Ten (10) breeding cages and two (2) small flight cages. But it didn't stop from there. I now have 16 breeding cages for my lovebirds, plus 4 cockatiel breeding cages and one 2 feet x 2 feet x 5 feet flight cage.

When everything happened so fast…
Unplanned…
As if you are just being driven by events…
Can we call it fate?

Nesting Materials

During my first few weeks taking care of breeders, I give them stripped (about 1 inch) bamboos. I just break it using a hammer for them to easily get nesting materials. Although they seem happy and a bit quiet because of being busy getting nesting materials, I realized later that it’s not a good nesting material. What they are getting is hard, sharp and pointed which is harmful for them, most especially to their young.

As much as I wanted to remove their nests, I couldn’t do so coz they might feel disappointed. I just stopped supplying bamboo strips and shifted to softer nesting materials like shredded white papers or shredded, unscented, plain white paper towels.

After their first successful breeding, where their chicks are independent already, I took the nesting box and removed everything inside. I returned it with new soft wooden shavings but without the nest.

Thorough research and consultation from expert breeders, I learned that one of the major factors in successful hatching of eggs is humidity. In the Philippines, this is so high especially during the months of March to May and just a bit lower for the rest of the year. Other suggested supplying them any dried grasses, some suggested buying nesting materials from pet shops (do we really have to do this?), others suggested to supplying “dayami” or haystack, but what attracted me most is to supplying Malunggay leaves.

Malunggay Leaves



Lovebirds adore fresh Malunggay (Moringa Oleifera or Ben Oil Tree) leaves and its stalk is a very good nesting material. I provide them around 8 inches long stalks of Malunggay with leaves. They will eat the leaves, shred the stalks, take them to their nest box and proceed to building their nest. I continue to supply Malunggay leaves even the eggs are laid. I am assuming that by doing this, it keeps the nest fresher keeping up the appropriate humidity level.

Malunggay is Miracle Vegetable

By Dr. Lydia M. Marero
Food and Nutrition Research Institute

Malunggay, known scientifically as Moringa oleifera Lamk, is one of the world's most useful plants. It is used as food, effective flocculant or water treatment, antibiotic, source of oil, and coagulant for turbid waters.
It is also called mother's best friend, and miracle vegetable by many who know malunggay's beneficial uses. It is cultivated in all countries of the tropics. It is easy to plant and is available year-round.

Malunggay's image was even used as the official logo of the Food and Nutrition Research Institute, an agency of the Department of Science and Technology.
One hundred grams or 1 cup of cooked malunggay leaves contain 3.1 g. protein, 0.6 g. fiber, 96 mg calcium, 29 mg phosphorus, 1.7 mg iron, 2,820 mg ß-carotene, 0.07 mg thiamin, 0.14 mg riboflavin, 1.1 mg niacin, and 53 mg ascorbic acid or vitamin C. The antioxidant activity of malunggay is about 71%, with µ-tocopherol (vitamin E) equivalent of 45.

Malunggay leaves are an excellent source of vitamin A and B, and minerals such as calcium and iron. It is even an excellent source of protein, being higher than the amino acid pattern of Food and Agriculture Organization-reference protein, yet contains very low fat and carbohydrates. The leaves are incomparable as a source of the sulfur-containing amino acids methionine and cystine, often the natural minerals humans’ lack.

Due to its high vitamins A, C, and E, which are very potent antioxidants, malunggay is a very good quencher of unstable free radicals that can react with and damage molecules that cause aging. Antioxidants reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. They also prevent the onset of various chronic diseases like arthritis, cancer, and heart and kidney diseases.

Malunggay contains the phytochemical niaziminin, which is found to have molecular components that can prevent the development of cancer cells (Faizi et al., 1992) and correlated with inhibitory ability against superoxide generation. The first naturally-occuring thiocarbamates, novel hypotensive agents niazinin A, niazinin B, niazimicin and niaziminin A and B were isolated from malunggay.

Malunggay is called miracle vegetable because it is not just a food, it is also a medicine. It may therefore be a functional food. Malunggay promotes good eyesight, digestion, facilitates bowel movement, and is a cure for stomach ache.

It is also used to cleanse wounds and ulcers. It helps alleviate scurvy, asthma, earache, and headaches. For its high calcium content, lactating mothers are advised to eat malunggay leaves to produce more milk.

Malunggay is usually cooked with chicken as tinola, or with fish and other vegetables, mongo soup dishes, and blanched as salads.

[For more information on food and nutrition, you may write or call The Director, Food and Nutrition Research Institute-Department of Science and Technology, Gen. Santos Avenue, Bicutan, Taguig, Metro Manila, Tel/Fax: 8372934, 8373164; E-mail: cvcb@fnri.dost.gov.ph; FNRI-DOST website: http//www.fnri@dost.gov.ph]

My Nesting Box

The nesting box that I created is a complete replica of what is commercially available. The only difference is that I painted them with water based paints, but only on the outside. Picture above shows the sketch of the nesting box that I created using google sketch. The size is 8 inches (deep) x 8 inches (tall) and 12 inches wide. As suggested by many, the bigger the nest box, the better. Just like the breeding cages. But if you want to maximize your breeding aviary, then using the minimum size should be fine, but never go lower than that.

Initial preparation

Before I put my new breeders inside their new breeding cages, I see to it that their nest box is initially prepared. Inside the nesting box is around 2 inches thick of wood shavings. I cut them into small pieces like ½ to ¾ of an inch. I carefully select every wood shaving that I put in; making sure that only soft materials are included.

Normally, nesting box is placed outside the breeding cage so that there is enough space for the birds to beat their wings without hitting anything or they should be able to climb and play as a form of an exercise. But then again, since I do not have the luxury of doing this because of limited space, I placed the nest box inside the breeding cage. Fortunately, my birds seem happy and breeding well.

I also make sure that I can easily open the door of the nesting box every time I want to peek in. If the door seems tight, I sand them down to smooth the edges. In this manner, I avoided wiggling the nest box, which might be irritating to the hen, eggs or chicks.


Cleaning

Though my nesting box is placed inside the breeding cage, I see to it that I can remove the nesting box every time I need to clean it. Nesting box is hanged inside using only brass hooks (without any sharp edges), but making sure that it is in steady position and not wiggling.

My Breeding Cages

My breeding cages are also non-traditional or the ones being bought commercially. I have nothing against the commercially available breeding cages; it is just that I want to put some styles on it so I created the breeding cages on my own. I also want to beautify my driveway and in my opinion these commercially available breeding cages looks more industrial. Just an opinion, though.

My initial breeding cages are made up of the following materials:
• ¾ inch plywood
• Tarpaulin to add colours on the outside and to make the plywood waterproof
• Painted with white (water based paint) to make the birds more attractive
• ½ inch chicken wires for the base
• Expanded aluminium wires on windows and front side. I used this material though a bit expensive, it added some elegance to the cages and these are rust proof.


My breeding cage size is 18 inches deep x 24 inches wide x 24 inches tall. I wanted to make it bigger but my space is so limited. Remember that the bigger their cages are, the better.

My Non-Traditional Aviary

It is not that I am against the traditional set up of breeding aviaries like the ones that I have visited. In fact, I even called them “ideal”. It is just that I do not have enough space to build such breeding aviary.

But my strong desire to breed lovebirds made me create some workaround. The only space where I could place my aviary is at my driveway. I don’t call it a garage coz’ it doesn’t have a roof. The maximum size I could use is 1 meter deep from the wall and 36 feet long.

Picture above shows the initial set up of my breeding aviary while it is still incomplete.

At first, I’m a bit frustrated that I can only house 18 lovebird breeders and 4 cockatiel breeders. Every time they produce good mutations, I am tempted to sell some of my breeders and try the new ones. Trying to produce different mutation added excitement and that is how I overcome my frustration.

Problems encountered on non-traditional aviaries

1. Mice
Setting up breeding aviaries like mine is a bit complicated and sometimes disappointing. The very first problem I had is mice. They keep on coming back and waiting for the right time to attack. I never gave them a chance though; I immediately find solution to resolve the problem.

2. Rain showers
Since I have a plant box filled with tropical plants on the other side of my driveway, I do not want to entirely put a roof to my driveway. Plants need sunlight, plus roofing the entire driveway is so expensive and will just block the air from entering my house’s windows.
What I did is to roof only the area used for the breeding cages, just enough to keep them dry. I only used plastic roofing since it is less expensive and doesn’t produces heat just like ordinary GI sheets.

3. Too much exposure to sunlight
I have learned that too much exposure to afternoon sunlight is an issue to my lovebirds. I do not have the option to transfer the breeding cages to the other side of my driveway for them to receive morning sunlight instead. What I did is to roof the entire garage with fish net. I’m not sure of the grade or size but according to the seller, it reduces at least 50% of sunlight. After several weeks of observation, my plants and birds seem ok and never had any problem since.

4. Mosquitoes
I learned from a friend who is a long time breeder that lovebirds hated mosquitoes. I’m not sure of the exact reason why but I am assuming that they don’t want to be disturbed with mosquito buzz and bites. Since I do not want to enclose my breeding cages with mosquito nets, I planted several mosquito repellent plants instead. According to the seller this is Malvarosa, but I doubt if it is the real name because searching “malvarosa” from the internet leads me to another type of plant. I propagated the plants to multiply them and placed them under the cages. So far so good! No more mosquitoes even inside my house.

5. It took them sometime to feel at home
When I started breeding lovebirds, I bought 10 proven pairs. Some pairs entered the nesting box after two weeks but most of them after 2 months and worst, 2 pairs after 4 months. Continued research and consulting assured me that this is normal especially when the cages are situated where they can always see people. Just be patient till they feel relaxed and at home.

Ideal Breeding Aviary

In my country, the Philippines, most of the breeding aviaries I visited are so secured from any unwanted elements like mice, lizards, cockroaches, mosquitoes and the likes. The whole aviary is equipped with enough lighting; birds are safe from rain showers but still allowing the sunlight to get in through. All windows and doors are covered by mosquito screens, etc.. This kind of setup is so ideal that your birds are always undisturbed, happy with their environment that even dusts and smokes coming from the outside are limited.

Although, I have seen lots of advantages in setting up traditional aviaries like I mentioned above, I only have one complaint, I couldn’t stand the heat inside. The humidity is so much that I couldn’t stay a minute inside. I’m not really sure if that temperature would somehow affect the health of the birds, but according to the owners, their birds seem to be happy and healthy and all are breeding pretty well.

Another thing, you have to make sure that you clean the aviary on a daily basis especially the catch basins. I visited one, somewhere around Metro Manila, the smell inside is so terrible. The owner said they clean the food and water containers on a daily basis but for the catch basin, only once or twice a week. So, if you’re planning to set up traditional aviary, make sure not to skip this part.